April 17: So excited to be on my second trip to Ireland, and of course, I began with a tour of "Dark Dublin," led by this eclectically dressed gentleman, who, despite his scary looks, was quite hilarious, regaling us with stories about "The Pig Man of Dublin," Ireland's answer to Jack the Ripper; about how the Irish Crown Jewels were stolen by a cabal of gay partiers; and about unusual forms of torture (like men being forced to wear metal shoes filled with water who then had their feet held over an open flame. Great fun! We also heard about Jonathan Swift's famous essay "A Modest Proposal," satirically suggesting that their British conquerors roast Irish children alongside potatoes and eat them. My favorite story, though, was of a mummified rat and cat found inside the pipes of the organ at Christchurch Cathedral, which are now on display. Their names, of course are "Tom & Jerry." More darkness and more fun are on the schedule today!